when visiting mono lake, wear old sneakers.
as much as i wanted to believe this place is void of gravity, i sunk calf-deep into black, viscous mud.
this is one of the many ways mono lake will surprise you.
there are no ripples on the lake. at sundown, the surface looks like a sheet of glass. limestone formations called tufa towers stand in various shapes and sizes along the edge of the lake. trillions of alkali flies living just above and below the surface of the water outline the edges. and if you aren't careful, lying right beneath the white, crumbly terrain, is thick, stubborn sludge that will swallow your shoes (and socks, in my case) and trigger some very serious childhood quicksand fears.